Being an introvert, I have been trying to avert crowds all my life. So when it comes to travelling, it is always a tough call to choose between the more popular destinations versus the ones less explored. After quite a bit of brainstorming, we chose to explore Arunachal Pradesh - the land of dawn-lit mountains.
This was an epic road-trip of 8 days and over 1,200 km. We started from Guwahati airport and visited Bhalukpong, Bomdila, Tawang, Dirang, Nameri, and ended our trip in Guwahati. The Northern Arunachal Pradesh region is sensitive due to proximity to Indo-China border, and is strategically important being the only road through which the supplies are delivered to the Indian army at Indo-China border. Therefore, there is a heavy army presence throughout the region.
Here, the Sun rises typically at around 4:30 a.m. and sets at around 4:30 p.m. Due to the hilly roads, we had to start our journey early morning and be on the road almost all day to cover the distance and reach our next stop before it got dark. This could easily qualify as one of the most difficult terrains to be driving in. Border Roads Organization (BRO) workers were at work relentlessly to keep this highway functional among numerous landslides. The patience, skill, and presence of mind of drivers to co-operate and let others pass by also play a huge role in keeping these roads from getting clogged.
Road-trips like this give you a lot of time to reflect. It was a road-trip of silent contemplation and inward reflection for me, and it gave me enough nudge to get over my writer's block.
We passed by the helipad in Baisakhi. We heard sounds of practice gunfire a couple of times. Enroute, we also visited a few war memorials, teaching and reminding us about the price of the freedom.
The region is filled with rivers, lakes, hills, valleys, waterfalls, snow, clouds, monasteries, stupas, and flags. The mountains are home to huge pine trees, rhododendrons, snow-clad peaks, some bare sharp rocks, boulders, and some sandy ones. Trees that are arranged so dense and in almost symmetrical manner as if God painted this canvas himself. Each frame was picture-perfect. This is truly a paradise for a landscape photographer.
Buddhist monasteries, rotating drums with the chants embossed in Monpa language, and flags fluttering in the wind are typical of Arunachal Pradesh. The Buddhist monasteries have a serene and peaceful aura. Some of these were also educational institutions and hostels where some young monks were playing around. The chants are printed on flags as well. Locals consider it sacred tying the flags as high as possible; the more wind they catch the better it is considered. Different colors and chants printed on the flags signify different things like peace, memory, valor etc.
Living in such terrain is a pure bliss. At the same time, survival here is no joke. It takes a lot of hard work to do basic chores here. Life at such places is a testament of mankind's will to survive no matter what. Hailing from the bustling city, we might think that such unpredictable weather and life conditions can easily make someone harsh and unpleasant. On the contrary, the grit of the locals in the face of adverse situations, and yet their audacity to stay grounded, warm, and kind intrigued me the most. It reminded me that, after all, it may not be that complicated to stay simple.
After cherishing all the moments during our onward journey to Tawang, it was then time to start our journey towards home. Gazing out of the window of our car while passing through the same route as our onward journey, I started recognizing the hills, rivers, bridges, and waterfalls as if I had made friends with them. This, mixed with soothing music was the recipe for philosophical 'high' for me.
As we crossed Sela Pass at the height of 13,700 ft from the sea level, we passed a stretch where we were literally driving through the clouds with a very little visibility. The quirky road safety slogans and quotes by BRO were our constant companions throughout the journey, I have included some at the end of the blog.
The sheer amount of imaginative vision it would have taken to build roads here still amazes me, not to forget about the architectural finesse that must have gone into planning and execution of making of this highway which is the only road connecting Arunachal Pradesh to the rest of India. The mountains are enormous in size and we have scratched their surfaces to carve roads here. You keep spiralling up and down on a mountain and keep looking at the adjacent hill facing your window till you reach a pass, and then you do it all over again with the next hill.
The lights were playing hide and seek with the peaks and valleys. Witnessing this was a mesmerizing and almost a spiritual experience. It humbles you and makes you realize how tiny we are in front of nature.
P.S.:
Some BRO slogans and quotes which made this rather long journey engaging and fun:
- Excellence doesn't happen by accident, it is a process
- On the bend, slow down friend
- Stop accidents before they stop you
- Alert today, alive tomorrow
- Speed and safety never meet
- Normal speed meets every need
- Start early, drive slowly, reach safely
- Better late than never
- Speed thrills but kills
- Feel the curves, don't hug them
- Go gentle on my curves
- Haste makes waste
- Peep peep, don't sleep
- Check your nerves on my curves
- Speed is a knife that cuts life
- Donate blood but not on road
- It is better to be Mr. Late than Late Mr.
- Safety at road, safe tea at home
- This is a highway, not a runway
- Simplicity is the peak of civilization
- The best view comes after the hardest climb
- Love safety, marry rules, divorce speed
- After whisky, driving risky
- We cut mountains, but we connect hearts.
